January 19, 2007
Yesterday, we descended into the Garden of Eden.
However, before I get into that, let me pick up where Melissa left off. After the cultural part of the safari, we commenced the traditional safari. For those of you who have not been on a safari before (which included me until now), a safari conjures up romantic images of strenuous days of animal tracking followed by gin and tonics and scintillating conversation with Ernest Hemingway. The reality is somewhat different, but still spectacular. The truth of the matter is that you’re essentially sitting in a large Toyota Land Cruiser that has an open roof for hours on end as your guide drives you through the various parks. Yet, oddly, by the end of the day, you still feel as if you have spent the day tracking wild game and that gin and tonic still tastes pretty good.
January 12-13, 2007
After leaving KN, we headed to the Ikoma Bush Camp. On the way, we drove through the Ngorongoro Conservation Area and into the Serengeti National Park. The prime difference between the NCA and the Serengeti is that humans can inhabit the conservation areas (subject to a host of limitations), while humans may not inhabit the national parks. Heading into the NCA, we were on a beautiful smooth road, which was a welcome change from the organ shifting experience of the road to KN. Interestingly, the road, which covers about 100 kilometers heading into the NCA was built by the Japanese government as a means to enhance tourism for Tanzania. However, once you enter the NCA, the road is a dirt road, which, I think is appropriate. It would seem anomalous to have essentially a highway cutting through the NCA and the Serengeti. One thing that you immediately notice in the NCA is the presence of the Massai, an ancient warrior tribe. The Massai are a regal people, who dress in an intense and deep shade of red. Apparently, lions are afraid of the color red. You can spot Massai dotting the green countryside. The region is also blanketed with their significant herds of cows and their villages, which can be described as small fenced in villages with a ½ dozen or so circular thatched roof huts. However, the Massai, who value their herds of cow beyond virtually all else, are semi-nomadic, depending on where the best grass to feed their cattle is. Melissa and I both read an autobiography of a Massai Warrior. While not spectacularly well written, it was very interesting and provided insight into this truly unique culture. Of particular interest is the fact that they practice both circumcision and do not eat milk and meat together (though they will eat blood and milk together). In watching the Massai, it was impossible to not think of the patriarchs and matriarchs of the Torah as they wandered the dessert. The semi-nomadic existence, the tending to the cattle, all seemed reminiscent of life in biblical times. At a minimum, it is certainly the case that the lives of the Massai have not radically changed in centuries, even if you do occasionally see the oddly incongruous sight of a Massai holding a cell phone from time to time.
We stopped for lunch at the Oldupai Gorge (yes, you learned it as the Olduvai Gorge, but apparently, the foreigner misheard the Massai pronunciation making all of our teachers liars, lo these many years). We received an interesting but brief presentation of 3,000,000 years of human evolutionary history. Melissa and I found the presentation and the museum pretty interesting, the kids, not so much.
At this point, we started seeing animals. It kind of sneaks up on you. You’re driving along and the guide will casually say there’s a zebra. The next thing that you know, you are less than ten feet from families of giraffes, zebras, gazelles. At this point, all four of us we’re standing on our seats with our heads out the roof, oohing and aahing at the vast display of animals passing by, sometimes only feet away. I felt like a kid, eyes and mouth agape at the sights before us. However, seeing it through the eyes of Maya and Emma made it even more amazing. Their joy and wonderment was simply infectious. Melissa and I kept wondering how people could choose to leave their kids behind. It seemed akin to us taking a trip to Disneyland without the kids. As we headed into the Serengeti, we had the great fortune of seeing, for the first time, the wildebeest migration. Apparently, this migration is currently the largest yearly migration of animals, involving the movement of nearly 1.5 million wildebeest, accompanied by scores of zebras and gazelles from Kenya into Tanzania and back, in search for better grass (then again, who isn’t searching for better grass?). It is without exaggeration, the most spectacular thing that I have ever seen. Animals literally as far as the eye can see. At some point, I stopped taking pictures because there were simply too many pictures to be taken.
We also saw some amazing flora and fauna. The acacia trees are unbelievable. These huge umbrella-like trees with branches reaching everywhere are amazing. It’s also interesting to see a single acacia tree in the middle of the plains, like a guard of the dessert. There are also Sausage Trees, which, obviously enough, look like they have sausages hanging from them. Maya first saw them and thought they had been decorated like Christmas trees. A fairly unusual site.
We then headed to our base camp for the next two nights, the Ikoma Bush Camp, located on the Serengeti. Melissa and I were a bit split on this place with Melissa primarily troubled by the Feng Shui deficiencies in its design. However, I liked the place. It was another tented lodge, where we had two tents. The two tents opened up into this area of high grass, the sunrise coming over the savannah was simply breathtaking. However, the place was a bit scary at night. The strange whooping sounds of the hyenas and other unidentifiable animal noises and impenetrable darkness.
The next day, we further explored the Serengeti, this time seeing elephants and giraffes, close enough to touch. Both animals are just amazing. Giraffes have this aristocratic nature seeming to own all that they survey. Maya described their movement as if you’re watching them in slow motion, which is accurate. They take long loping strides. Quite something to behold. Elephants are also breathtaking. I’m reading a fascinating book, The Tree Where Man Was Born by Peter Matthiesen, which provides an account of the nature of the region. He discusses the dangers posed by the elephants, who literally destroy everything in their path. Huge trees are knocked down as elephants blithely stroll by. You can always tell when elephants have been around. However, seeing elephants in close proximity is wonderful. They generally move in herds. The bulls with their long, sharp ivory tusks are just remarkable.
January 14-16, 2007
We headed to Speke Bay, which is on Lake Victoria. Lake Victoria is huge and beautiful, with parts in each of Uganda, Kenya and Tanzania, the largest portion in Tanzania. Unfortunately, we could not swim for fear of charging hippos. We stayed at the Speke Bay Lodge where we had two stand alone rooms in round buildings. The rooms were fine and had the best showers to date, but the place was not our favorite place. It was the only place that did not provide a room from our guide, which bothered all of us. However, it was nice to have a day off from long game drives. The only down side was not being busy made us miss home a bit. As consolation, we forced the kids to do math. We felt much better.
On the morning of the 16th we headed back into the Serengeti to the Ndutu Safari Lodge, locate between Ngorongoro and the Serengeti. . En route, we again saw the wildebeest migration, in all of its glory. As a first, we saw lions from ten feet away, females and cubs. Lions are stunning, majestic creatures. We did not see a lot of activity, as, apparently, they had just eaten and were just lazily lying there. Every time they moved, we oohed and ahhed. Lions are possessed of a sleek perfection. We learned that the female lions are the more adept hunters. However, once they make a kill the male lions get the first opportunity to eat, followed by the cubs and then, if there’s anything left, the female lions get to eat. Just like our home—only the only thing Melissa hunts for is a parking space at Trader Joes.
The Ndutu Lodge was our favorite place. We arrived there to an immensely gracious greeting. Our rooms were rustic, but fine, with immense views of the savannah. The food was great and the staff incredibly friendly and warm.
January 17, 2007
The next morning we headed back into the Serengeti, where we saw an apparently rare sight—a pride of nine lions, including males, females and cubs. The male lions with their huge and golden mane are majestic. Again, they were lazily loping around, but we sat there for quite some time, entranced by their beauty. We then saw and spent a ½ hour observing an absolutely gorgeous cheetah that Melissa spotted lurking in the tall grass--a very luck find.
We returned to Ndutu for a great lunch. Maya was not feeling well. It’s hard to not worry a bit when your child says they’re not feeling well in Africa. After lunch, we poured poor Maya into the car and headed to our final destination, the plantation lodge. Fortunately, within a couple of hours after sleeping on Melissa’s lap, Maya started to perk up.
We arrived at the Plantation Lodge, which was gorgeous, evoking, more than any other place, colonial gentility. We ended up in a huge two bedroom suite (after Melissa complained about a mold smell in her first room—mold continues to haunt us). It was another place that brought to mind romantic game hunts followed, of course, by gin and tonics. I chose to partake. . .in the gin and tonics.
January 18, 2007
Now this brings us to Eden, otherwise known as that Ngorongoro Crater. As you approach the crater, it is impossible to not be filled by wonder. It is the result of the explosion several million years ago of a 4,500 meter mountain. The view from the top of the crater is nothing less than divine. Getting into the crater is a bit tough. The road going in is a bit jarring. In addition, the acacia trees bring to mind the talking trees in the Wizard of Oz. They were strangely menacing, as if they’re warning you to stay away. As you enter, you immediately see zebras and wildebeest. While at this point, we had seen many of both such animals, here it was a bit different. Because the animals are so accustomed to cars in this area, they are literally on the dirt roads, so instead of 10 feet away, the animals are one foot away. We similarly saw buffaloes and lions. A special treat was that we were able to see three, of the highly endangered, black rhinos.
The whole experience was just consuming. You have the sense that you could get out of the car and be in this utopic communion with nature.
It was another great day and time for a gin and tonic.
January 19, 2007
On this final morning of our safari, we went to the beautiful Lake Manyara, which is a small, but beautiful national park. The highlights of the morning were seeing a brand new baby elephant walking gingerly under his mother’s legs and a sea of pink flamingoes on the lake.
All in all, our safari was a wonderful experience. However, beyond the uncomfortable colonial aspect of the whole experience there is a social aspect that is worth considering. I asked Mrosso whether Tanzanian kids get to experience the wonder of the Tanzanian national parks. He said that the vast majority will never benefit from the opportunity for cost reasons—not because of the entry fee which is nominal for Tanzanian residents, but because most don’t have an available vehicle. It is clear that as you’re on safari virtually all of the people on safari are white westerners. It is a striking fact that the Serengeti National Park was created in 1951 while Tanzania only achieved independence in 1961. Put another way, the animals were given independence before the humans. It is clearly the case that this extraordinary natural gift is for the benefit of the visitors not the Tanzanians. Matthiesen writes as follows:
Not long ago it was estimated that only one East African in twelve had ever seen a lion, though lions are common in the park at the very outskirts of Nairobi, but one is not allowed into the parks without a car, and very few Africans have access to a car, far less own one. The average citizen has more fear of than interest in wild animals, which most Africans regard as evidence of backwardness, a view in which they were long encouraged by European farmers and administrators. Far from being proud of the “priceless heritage” so dear to conservation literature, they are ashamed of it.
While Matthiessen wrote his book in 1972, my sense is that the reality has not changed substantially since then. Certainly, it is the case that Tanzanians benefit from the tourist revenue brought to this very poor country, but it is inescapable that the tourist infrastructure may prefer the white interest in conservation (an admittedly important objective) at the expense of the citizens.
Next up: the volunteering.
Adios.
Yesterday, we descended into the Garden of Eden.
However, before I get into that, let me pick up where Melissa left off. After the cultural part of the safari, we commenced the traditional safari. For those of you who have not been on a safari before (which included me until now), a safari conjures up romantic images of strenuous days of animal tracking followed by gin and tonics and scintillating conversation with Ernest Hemingway. The reality is somewhat different, but still spectacular. The truth of the matter is that you’re essentially sitting in a large Toyota Land Cruiser that has an open roof for hours on end as your guide drives you through the various parks. Yet, oddly, by the end of the day, you still feel as if you have spent the day tracking wild game and that gin and tonic still tastes pretty good.
January 12-13, 2007
After leaving KN, we headed to the Ikoma Bush Camp. On the way, we drove through the Ngorongoro Conservation Area and into the Serengeti National Park. The prime difference between the NCA and the Serengeti is that humans can inhabit the conservation areas (subject to a host of limitations), while humans may not inhabit the national parks. Heading into the NCA, we were on a beautiful smooth road, which was a welcome change from the organ shifting experience of the road to KN. Interestingly, the road, which covers about 100 kilometers heading into the NCA was built by the Japanese government as a means to enhance tourism for Tanzania. However, once you enter the NCA, the road is a dirt road, which, I think is appropriate. It would seem anomalous to have essentially a highway cutting through the NCA and the Serengeti. One thing that you immediately notice in the NCA is the presence of the Massai, an ancient warrior tribe. The Massai are a regal people, who dress in an intense and deep shade of red. Apparently, lions are afraid of the color red. You can spot Massai dotting the green countryside. The region is also blanketed with their significant herds of cows and their villages, which can be described as small fenced in villages with a ½ dozen or so circular thatched roof huts. However, the Massai, who value their herds of cow beyond virtually all else, are semi-nomadic, depending on where the best grass to feed their cattle is. Melissa and I both read an autobiography of a Massai Warrior. While not spectacularly well written, it was very interesting and provided insight into this truly unique culture. Of particular interest is the fact that they practice both circumcision and do not eat milk and meat together (though they will eat blood and milk together). In watching the Massai, it was impossible to not think of the patriarchs and matriarchs of the Torah as they wandered the dessert. The semi-nomadic existence, the tending to the cattle, all seemed reminiscent of life in biblical times. At a minimum, it is certainly the case that the lives of the Massai have not radically changed in centuries, even if you do occasionally see the oddly incongruous sight of a Massai holding a cell phone from time to time.
We stopped for lunch at the Oldupai Gorge (yes, you learned it as the Olduvai Gorge, but apparently, the foreigner misheard the Massai pronunciation making all of our teachers liars, lo these many years). We received an interesting but brief presentation of 3,000,000 years of human evolutionary history. Melissa and I found the presentation and the museum pretty interesting, the kids, not so much.
At this point, we started seeing animals. It kind of sneaks up on you. You’re driving along and the guide will casually say there’s a zebra. The next thing that you know, you are less than ten feet from families of giraffes, zebras, gazelles. At this point, all four of us we’re standing on our seats with our heads out the roof, oohing and aahing at the vast display of animals passing by, sometimes only feet away. I felt like a kid, eyes and mouth agape at the sights before us. However, seeing it through the eyes of Maya and Emma made it even more amazing. Their joy and wonderment was simply infectious. Melissa and I kept wondering how people could choose to leave their kids behind. It seemed akin to us taking a trip to Disneyland without the kids. As we headed into the Serengeti, we had the great fortune of seeing, for the first time, the wildebeest migration. Apparently, this migration is currently the largest yearly migration of animals, involving the movement of nearly 1.5 million wildebeest, accompanied by scores of zebras and gazelles from Kenya into Tanzania and back, in search for better grass (then again, who isn’t searching for better grass?). It is without exaggeration, the most spectacular thing that I have ever seen. Animals literally as far as the eye can see. At some point, I stopped taking pictures because there were simply too many pictures to be taken.
We also saw some amazing flora and fauna. The acacia trees are unbelievable. These huge umbrella-like trees with branches reaching everywhere are amazing. It’s also interesting to see a single acacia tree in the middle of the plains, like a guard of the dessert. There are also Sausage Trees, which, obviously enough, look like they have sausages hanging from them. Maya first saw them and thought they had been decorated like Christmas trees. A fairly unusual site.
We then headed to our base camp for the next two nights, the Ikoma Bush Camp, located on the Serengeti. Melissa and I were a bit split on this place with Melissa primarily troubled by the Feng Shui deficiencies in its design. However, I liked the place. It was another tented lodge, where we had two tents. The two tents opened up into this area of high grass, the sunrise coming over the savannah was simply breathtaking. However, the place was a bit scary at night. The strange whooping sounds of the hyenas and other unidentifiable animal noises and impenetrable darkness.
The next day, we further explored the Serengeti, this time seeing elephants and giraffes, close enough to touch. Both animals are just amazing. Giraffes have this aristocratic nature seeming to own all that they survey. Maya described their movement as if you’re watching them in slow motion, which is accurate. They take long loping strides. Quite something to behold. Elephants are also breathtaking. I’m reading a fascinating book, The Tree Where Man Was Born by Peter Matthiesen, which provides an account of the nature of the region. He discusses the dangers posed by the elephants, who literally destroy everything in their path. Huge trees are knocked down as elephants blithely stroll by. You can always tell when elephants have been around. However, seeing elephants in close proximity is wonderful. They generally move in herds. The bulls with their long, sharp ivory tusks are just remarkable.
January 14-16, 2007
We headed to Speke Bay, which is on Lake Victoria. Lake Victoria is huge and beautiful, with parts in each of Uganda, Kenya and Tanzania, the largest portion in Tanzania. Unfortunately, we could not swim for fear of charging hippos. We stayed at the Speke Bay Lodge where we had two stand alone rooms in round buildings. The rooms were fine and had the best showers to date, but the place was not our favorite place. It was the only place that did not provide a room from our guide, which bothered all of us. However, it was nice to have a day off from long game drives. The only down side was not being busy made us miss home a bit. As consolation, we forced the kids to do math. We felt much better.
On the morning of the 16th we headed back into the Serengeti to the Ndutu Safari Lodge, locate between Ngorongoro and the Serengeti. . En route, we again saw the wildebeest migration, in all of its glory. As a first, we saw lions from ten feet away, females and cubs. Lions are stunning, majestic creatures. We did not see a lot of activity, as, apparently, they had just eaten and were just lazily lying there. Every time they moved, we oohed and ahhed. Lions are possessed of a sleek perfection. We learned that the female lions are the more adept hunters. However, once they make a kill the male lions get the first opportunity to eat, followed by the cubs and then, if there’s anything left, the female lions get to eat. Just like our home—only the only thing Melissa hunts for is a parking space at Trader Joes.
The Ndutu Lodge was our favorite place. We arrived there to an immensely gracious greeting. Our rooms were rustic, but fine, with immense views of the savannah. The food was great and the staff incredibly friendly and warm.
January 17, 2007
The next morning we headed back into the Serengeti, where we saw an apparently rare sight—a pride of nine lions, including males, females and cubs. The male lions with their huge and golden mane are majestic. Again, they were lazily loping around, but we sat there for quite some time, entranced by their beauty. We then saw and spent a ½ hour observing an absolutely gorgeous cheetah that Melissa spotted lurking in the tall grass--a very luck find.
We returned to Ndutu for a great lunch. Maya was not feeling well. It’s hard to not worry a bit when your child says they’re not feeling well in Africa. After lunch, we poured poor Maya into the car and headed to our final destination, the plantation lodge. Fortunately, within a couple of hours after sleeping on Melissa’s lap, Maya started to perk up.
We arrived at the Plantation Lodge, which was gorgeous, evoking, more than any other place, colonial gentility. We ended up in a huge two bedroom suite (after Melissa complained about a mold smell in her first room—mold continues to haunt us). It was another place that brought to mind romantic game hunts followed, of course, by gin and tonics. I chose to partake. . .in the gin and tonics.
January 18, 2007
Now this brings us to Eden, otherwise known as that Ngorongoro Crater. As you approach the crater, it is impossible to not be filled by wonder. It is the result of the explosion several million years ago of a 4,500 meter mountain. The view from the top of the crater is nothing less than divine. Getting into the crater is a bit tough. The road going in is a bit jarring. In addition, the acacia trees bring to mind the talking trees in the Wizard of Oz. They were strangely menacing, as if they’re warning you to stay away. As you enter, you immediately see zebras and wildebeest. While at this point, we had seen many of both such animals, here it was a bit different. Because the animals are so accustomed to cars in this area, they are literally on the dirt roads, so instead of 10 feet away, the animals are one foot away. We similarly saw buffaloes and lions. A special treat was that we were able to see three, of the highly endangered, black rhinos.
The whole experience was just consuming. You have the sense that you could get out of the car and be in this utopic communion with nature.
It was another great day and time for a gin and tonic.
January 19, 2007
On this final morning of our safari, we went to the beautiful Lake Manyara, which is a small, but beautiful national park. The highlights of the morning were seeing a brand new baby elephant walking gingerly under his mother’s legs and a sea of pink flamingoes on the lake.
All in all, our safari was a wonderful experience. However, beyond the uncomfortable colonial aspect of the whole experience there is a social aspect that is worth considering. I asked Mrosso whether Tanzanian kids get to experience the wonder of the Tanzanian national parks. He said that the vast majority will never benefit from the opportunity for cost reasons—not because of the entry fee which is nominal for Tanzanian residents, but because most don’t have an available vehicle. It is clear that as you’re on safari virtually all of the people on safari are white westerners. It is a striking fact that the Serengeti National Park was created in 1951 while Tanzania only achieved independence in 1961. Put another way, the animals were given independence before the humans. It is clearly the case that this extraordinary natural gift is for the benefit of the visitors not the Tanzanians. Matthiesen writes as follows:
Not long ago it was estimated that only one East African in twelve had ever seen a lion, though lions are common in the park at the very outskirts of Nairobi, but one is not allowed into the parks without a car, and very few Africans have access to a car, far less own one. The average citizen has more fear of than interest in wild animals, which most Africans regard as evidence of backwardness, a view in which they were long encouraged by European farmers and administrators. Far from being proud of the “priceless heritage” so dear to conservation literature, they are ashamed of it.
While Matthiessen wrote his book in 1972, my sense is that the reality has not changed substantially since then. Certainly, it is the case that Tanzanians benefit from the tourist revenue brought to this very poor country, but it is inescapable that the tourist infrastructure may prefer the white interest in conservation (an admittedly important objective) at the expense of the citizens.
Next up: the volunteering.
Adios.
4 comments:
We LOVED your description of your hunting trip for "breakfast".
I was thinking that you might have been able to politely decline the "innards" when they were offered to you, on the basis that they were not kosher, however, I think that a dik-dik might be an animal with cloven hoofs who does chew it's cud.
So maybe showing Maya & Emma the photos of the snake eating the frog was not such a bad idea. It was mild compared to what they have been experiencing.
Keep the great stories coming. We are enjoying your trip along with you.
Love, Poppy & Mana
We loved Emma's blog.
I tried to comment on her blog, but so far it is not accepting my password. I will try again, after seeing if it works on your blog.
Everyone is LOVING what all of you have to say about everything.
Love, Poppy
Adam, you are a great -- and funny -- writer. The photos are magnificent.
Drink up...
Cheers,
Brianna
Looks so amazing with all the animals!! I'm glad you are all having a blast!
Much Love,
Christy
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